A single ballast resistor being identifiable having only two prongs. You want to wire the ballast resistor in series with the ignition feed to the coil. Be certain to mount this resistor away from wiring harness’ and other meltable components. This resistor DOES get hot. And don’t forget to pack a spare in the glove box. Again, this part is usually found on the shelves and no “donor” vehicle type is required. This ballast appears shorter than the above mentioned part Chyrsler Products For some more condensor, ballast resistor, and coil varients, see ‘AC Delco Illustrated Electrical Catalog’. Starter The starter is perhaps the easiest of the lot, it will survive quite nicely on a diet of 12 volts. Believe it or not, 6 volt starters are designed to handle a bundle more current than their 12 volt counterparts.
Wiring coil and ballast resistor
Sounds like some sort of electrical problem. I think it will get hot till the points burn up. But then they would also burn out soon
The RA receivers have always been considered the paragon of electro-mechanical complexity. However, a methodical approach to the restoration of these ultimate performers will ease an otherwise difficult and time-consuming project.
Stage and show lighting Lighting is important in theatre and shows. Lighting allows us to see the performers. Lighting provides a tool for setting moods and tones of scenes on stage. Different type of performanced have different lighting needs. Here are some typical lighting situations: Dance – Back lighting Theatre plays – a somwhow realistic looking combination of different lights Straight Theatre – Light through a window Stage lighting is achieved by the use of a large number of powerful stage lights, or lanterns or luminaires.
There are a great variety of these, for different applications, or of different make or vintage. So there are many different types of lighting instruments used in any theatre. Each type of instrument plays an important role in the overall lighting scheme. The most common light types used in theatres are plane convex lights, freshnels, profiles, which are the generic classes of spotlights.
Can I get some help on what resistors and how many to use to hook up 20 3mm leds?
If I hook a jumper between battery positive and the coil, it’ll start and run just fine. When I hook up the wire from ignition, I’m only reading 9 volts. But with the switch off, resistance between the coil and the switch is. So the wiring is good, but I’ll have to do voltage drops to figure out the source of the draw. The guys at pertronix said that there might be a ballast resistor built into the ignition switch to keep the coil from overheating when the engine is off and the key is on, but I can’t really tell.
Thanks for the advice, I’ll get this thing back on the road one of these days.
Main Ship Equipments | Equipment Types | Main Marine Manufacturers An English-Chinese-Japanese Dictionary of Technology =A=B=C=D=E=F=G=H=I=J=K=L=M=N=O=P=Q=R=S=T=U=V=W.
However, mercury vapor and sodium lamps are not typically used in the reef hobby but are widely used in the horticulture industry. The metal halide lamps used in the aquarium hobby are typically characterized and sold based on different attributes, such as: Metal halide lamps have two basic configurations; those with an outer envelope and those without. These lamps are typically single-ended SE and use a threaded mount to screw into a socket. The second lamp configuration lacks the outer envelope and typically has two ends double-ended, DE that need to be inserted into a socket, as we shall discuss shortly.
The inner arc tube contains the electrodes and various metal halides, along with mercury and inert gases that make up the mix. The typical halides used are some combination of sodium, thallium, indium, scandium and dysprosium iodides. Light is generated by creating an arc between the two electrodes located inside the inner arc tube.
The outer jacket is usually made of borosilicate glass to reduce the amount of UV radiation emitted from the lamp.
The large “BATT” terminal which gets connected to your battery positive. Or Terminal Post if your vehicle is so equipped. And a dual terminal connector.
(Eric’s information begins here:) “Here’s something I wrote up a while ago for someone describing tests for the sensors. I had done all these in hopes to find and eliminate the poor running I was experiencing.
Asked by HondoTX Aug 12, at Ran new volt meter under dash instead. At same time, bypassed the main hot lead through bulkhead with an independent 8ga wire through it’s own new firewall grommet. Voltage at battery kept climbing and I would finally have to shut car off when it spiked over 17v.. It was popping these 40A fuses constantly and also blew a few voltage regulators.
Prior to me working on it, it had previously blown a coil and also the ignition control module. Now that we’ve resolved the shorts best I can tell , I’m pretty sure that the 4prong ballast was flip-flopped. Apparantly it’s been wired like this for over 20 years! It was getting full power to the leads going into ballast, and the brown wire going to coil was ALSO getting close to full voltage about Wierd thing is that the new volt-meter under dash is showing barely over 14v.
Where does my coil resistor wire go?
Ballast Resistor Does anybody know what the voltage going in and out of the ballast resister should be? I know I asked before but is a resistor wire going into the ballast resistor normal? Also our new resistor seems to get quite warm…is this normal when new? The wiring going in and out seems fine. Also is anybody using an Accel supercoil? You know the big kinda boxy yellow one…does it have internal resistance?
Some other tidbits available from AC Delco for wiring up a 10SI, is wiring package (for those 6 to 12volt conversions). This contains the terminal connector AND an extra resistance wire pigtail to connect to the ignition system (don’t use a ballast resistor if you use a resistance wire).
This article is also useful when converting from points to Mopar’s factory style electronic ignition EI or orange box ECU. Mopar discontinued the Slant 6 EI kit for the points to electronic ignition conversion, but they still offer the V-8 version of the Kit. The V-8 version would be a solution, but the distributor is not the correct size for a Slant 6. Any model Slant Six car and possibly many other years would have this distributor. What you won’t learn This article is only the tip of the iceberg, especially if you are not familiar with basic engine systems and maintenance.
This should not be the first or last document you read before you do this project, but definitely read this article completely before you start. If your engine is badly worn or damaged or in need of other maintenance, I suggest you perform those tasks before doing this conversion.
Lights and electronics
Feeding the coil with 14 volts instead of 7 automatically improves spark intensity, improving throttle response, fuel mileage, and maybe even adding a bit more power, too. The average person thinks anything from the factory is automatically the best it can be, but real car people know new technology usually means improvement.
Honest Ford guys will admit that the Duraspark system has not lived up to its name, and replacement boxes are even less reliable. While original factory Mopar ignition boxes are good, the design for both the Ford and Mopar boxes suffers from an often overlooked, yet crucial design consideration.
After many years of Research and Development, the PlasmaGlow LED Igniters Headlight Conversion Kit is the most advanced lighting system to date.
I have a late 8N that had been converted to 12V. It has a 12V coil on it, new. I have been working on it since spring. I won’t start right away,but if I jumper it to the truck,it starts and stays running. This morning while trying to figure out the problem I checked the voltage at the coil and it is 6. So I went back to the Ballast resistor.
The left hand terminal of the ballast resistor goes to the coil. So the ballast resistor is cutting the voltage. If I jumper the terminal that goes to the coil, across to the center bottom terminal 12V in , the tractor fires right up, and if I remove the jumper, the tractor continues to run, only using the 6V into the coil.
Of course,I am non longer going thru the ignition switch so if I leave the jumper on, the tractor won’t shut down until I remove the jumper. Can I by pass the ballest resistor and just connect the ignition switch from the 12 V in, to the terminal that the coil wire is on so I have 12 V at the coil or will that damage something? If not what is the proper configuration? Thanks for the help Jim Loveridge Yes you will damage the coil.